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72 Hours in Buenos Aires

Fanny
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October 28, 2024
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9 min. read
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Buenos Aires · Argentina
#Lifestyle
#LearnFromLocals

Below are a few tips to help you make the most of a 3-day stay in Buenos Aires, starting with choosing the best barrio for your base. Based on our many experiences in the city, we recommend Recoleta. This upscale, classic neighborhood offers a prime location, close to many major attractions and within walking distance of a wide variety of restaurants, cafés, and bars.

A group of visitors and the Argentinean flag seen from above in a classic building (Buenos Aires)

The map below highlights key neighborhoods you’re likely to explore: the relaxed, trendy vibe of Palermo Hollywood, the historic charm of San Telmo (Buenos Aires’ oldest district), the colorful streets of Caminito in La Boca, and the modern waterfront area of Puerto Madero, one of the city’s newest developments. It’s also important to note that Buenos Aires has two airports:

Map of Buenos Aires and its districts

Three days may sound like an eternity but it is the bare minimum stay that we recommend for first-timers in the Argentine capital. Why? Find our arguments below 😉

In this article:

Day 1

Wake up early and lace up a pair of comfortable shoes, its time to begin exploring Recoleta, one of the safest and cleanest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, known for its Paris-styled former palaces, posh boutiques, restaurants and landmarks. Within walking distance from anywhere in the neighborhood, you will be able to make your way to one of the most beautiful cemeteries in South America where the most famous attraction is without a doubt the tomb of Eva Peron (or as she is more famously known as, Evita).

People sitting at the outdoor tables at the traditional La Biela, Buenos Aires on a sunny day

Stop for a coffee or a beer at the nearby La Biela Café, declared a Place of Cultural Interest by the city, a stylish historic cafe that looks like something straight out of the 1950’s and a once very popular hangout for politicians, writers, artists, actors and media celebrities, La Biela acquired its present name when it became a popular meeting place for racing car champions, including the five times Formula One world champion and Argentine, Juan Manuel Fangio.

72 Hours in Buenos Aires - La Biela
La Biela Café
72 Hours in Buenos Aires  - La Biela - old picture of Formula One champions

A little further away from the cemetery (about 20-minute walk) will bring you to another incredible historic landmark, El Ateneo Grand Splendid Bookshop, named the ‘World's most beautiful bookstore’ by the National Geographic, and aptly so, as this once theater turned bookstore has even been described as ‘the temple of books’.

72 Hours in Buenos Aires - Main hall of El Ateneo library
El Ateneo Library

Arriving at the San Telmo market around midday was perfect timing. As hunger sets in, the market offers a variety of food stalls with set menus and traditional Argentine snacks like choripán that are not to be missed. Be sure to stop by a dulce de leche stand to sample the different varieties of this local favorite!

San Telmo market

A tip if you are into history: just a five-minute walk from San Telmo Market you find 'El Zanjon de Granados' - internationally recognized as an archaeological wonder of the city.

The facade of this 19th-century mansion provides no inkling of the hidden wonders within. During the guided tour you'll catch a glimpse of colonial Buenos Aires' past as you descend through the beautifully illuminated network of underground tunnels and see objects found during the excavation. 

In 2018 El Zanjon was chosen by the Norwegian Queen Sonja and King Harald as the venue to host a dinner during their official visit to Argentina.

Our next stop was at La Boca, the famous spot for that obligatory photo of the colorful houses built by the European immigrants that came to Buenos Aires.

72 Hours in Buenos Aires - Colorful houses in La Boca
Corrugated iron buildings at La Boca

Just a few minutes drive away from La Boca you will find yourself in ‘Barracas’, if you are into urban street art this will be the perfect ‘detour’ through the city for you. You will notice that there are no tourists here, only very colorful and expressive houses and walls painted by urban artists from across the globe. Make sure not to miss the 2000-square meter work of street art, ‘El Regreso de Quinquela’, which was the biggest street mural in the world before 2016, created by the artist Alfredo Segatori.

If you're a football fan, then take a turn past La Bombonera football stadium, home of the world-famous Boca Juniors football club, and a pitch which has been graced by the presence of legendary players such as Maradona.

a couple visiting the museum of La Bombonera stadium passing by the Maradona statue.

Once back at La Boca, head to the Cafe at the Proa Museum for a snack or cold beer on their top floor which features incredible views of the port from the terrace. A set menu is served daily here with fresh and homey food in a relaxing atmosphere and surrounded by art. Best of all, you don't have to pay the admission fee to the museum in order to access it (although we would definitely recommend taking a look while you're there).

In the evening, head to Puerto Madero where you will be able to behold one of its most iconic landmarks, the Woman’s Bridge, beautifully illuminated in a variety of colors and always ready for a photo opportunity. It is hard to believe that the three-story red bricks buildings alongside the river that are home to some of the city’s most upmarket restaurants were once warehouses.

Woman's Bridge - Puerto Madero

Buenos Aires is often hailed as the world’s steak capital, home to Don Julio, a renowned steakhouse that ranked among the World’s 50 Best Restaurants and featuring a Michelin star. The restaurant exclusively serves grass-fed Aberdeen Angus and Hereford beef.

To celebrate a birthday, we booked a table two months in advance, excited to savor their signature cut, Bife de Chorizo Ancho - famed for its rich, fatty flavor and expertly cooked to a perfect medium-rare.

Last-minute diners who try their luck are treated to complimentary sparkling wine and empanadas while relaxing at outdoor tables—but be prepared to wait for hours until a table becomes available.

Bife de chorizo ancho at Don Julio

Day 2

This day is completely dedicated to exploring the city center, the Pink House in Plaza de Mayo, the Town Hall, the Obelisk as well as a visit to the impressive Colon Theater, with its flawless acoustics and countless hostings of world-class operas, ballets, and classical music acts for just over a hundred years, some of which include Enrico Caruso, Luciano Pavarotti and Maria Callas to name a few from the countless famous acts that have graced the worlds’ most incredible stage with their presence.

If you are in town during the weekend book a guided visit for 'Colon Fabrica' for a look behind the scenes. At Colon everything what is needed for a production as scenery, costumes, special effects, etc come from its own workshops.

Colon Fabrica

Get back to your hotel for a well-deserved break and shower before a tango show. There is a large number of tango shows in town. Our favorite one is the Rojo Tango at the Faena Hotel in Puerto Madero, a uniquely beautiful hotel with signature splashes of crimson from the hotels designer, Philippe Starck, which can be found tastefully placed everywhere.

72 Hours in Buenos Aires - Rojo Tango Show

You can either attend only the show or book the a-la-carte dinner that precedes the show. From the moment you enter the Faena Hotel, you feel like a VIP guest as you walk along the red carpet an make your way towards the show’s venue (the same place where the dinner is served before).

Pictures are not allowed during the show. The exception the night we attended was made for the British boy group One Direction. They could have a short shooting session with the dancers at the end of the show ;-).

If you prefer something a little bit more ‘local’ or down-to-earth, then a ‘milonga’ is what you are looking for. 'Milongas' are organized events where people gather to socialize and dance the tango and they are held throughout Buenos Aires almost every day. Check ‘Hoy Milonga’ for an updated schedule.

More often than not, the milongas will start after dinner, so you will still have plenty of time for an evening stroll through Palermo, littered with cafés, restaurants, and boutiques, it is trendy, creative, young and chic - a destination for foodies, art lovers and shopaholics alike.

72 Hours in Buenos Aires - Palermo

A great dining option in Palermo is ‘Niño Gordo’ (Fat Boy), its quirky and fun interior has catapulted this creative Asian-style steakhouse into the limelight by being one of the most Instagrammable restaurants in town. Japanese, Korean, and Chinese flavors meet Argentine traditions and are served in an intimate dining area.

Day 3

Fancy a coffee and a sweet treat in an intimate and unique setting? Then head to the ‘MALBA in Palermo. The ‘MALBA’ houses both historical and contemporary collections of art by Latin American artists, including the famous Frida Kahlo.

MALBA’s cafe, ‘Ninina Malba’ overlooks a green park where you can enjoy a brunch together with mild weather and some toasty sunshine, as we did when we visited in April.

Cafe Malba's cafeteria ft. an outdoor terrace with trees

For those eager to take home a souvenir, there is an onsite museum store that has some really amazing notebooks, jewelry, and other knick-knacks.

Barolo Palace

If you’re more interested in photography and history, head to Palacio Barolo, a landmark office building in the Monserrat neighborhood. During the 1.5-hour guided tour, you’ll discover the unique architecture of this building, which was once the tallest in South America.

Designed to represent the three realms of Dante Alighieri’s Divine Comedy—Heaven, Hell, and Purgatory—the tour culminates with a visit to the lighthouse on the 22nd floor, offering stunning 360° views of Buenos Aires, including the breathtaking scenery below.

View from Barolo Palace

Where To Stay

Loi Suites Recoleta ($$) in the heart of Recoleta, its 112 rooms offer a blend of modern comfort and classic charm.

Libertad ($$) contemporary style with a superb location in Recoleta. With only 34 rooms, it provides a more intimate atmosphere for guests.

Casa Lucia ($$$$) an iconic and historic building in Recoleta, it's the latest iteration of the former Sofitel. Its 2024 opening was widely celebrated as one of the most anticipated launches of the year. 142 rooms.

Faena + Universe ($$$$) is a converted granary in the trendy, upscale neighborhood of Puerto Madero, designed by Philippe Starck. Its distinctive and eclectic decor quickly made it a popular destination, attracting design enthusiasts from around the world. 49 rooms

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